Unlock the secrets to radiant, youthful skin with our comprehensive guide to skincare superheroes like retinol, anti-aging serums, and powerful formulas to tackle dark spots and dryness.
Say hello to a rejuvenated complexion with our expert tips on firming strategies that enhance your natural beauty. Delve into the world of potent skincare solutions as we unveil the science behind achieving a flawless, ageless visage.
Whether you're combatting pesky signs of aging or seeking to pamper your skin with luxurious formulas, we've got you covered.
Discover the ultimate arsenal of products and techniques that will leave your skin glowing with a newfound vitality. Join us on a journey to unlock the fountain of youth through tried-and-tested skincare remedies that promise lasting results. Say goodbye to dull, lackluster skin, and embrace a luminous, youthful glow that defies the hands of time.
What are Retinoids?
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, a vital nutrient and antioxidant that promotes healthy skin. Vitamin A has over 70 years of research backing its ability to improve skin health and appearance, with ongoing studies revealing even more benefits.
The term "retinoid" covers a range of compounds derived from vitamin A, including retinol and retinaldehyde. Essentially, retinoids are cell-communicating ingredients that instruct the skin to renew itself, encouraging a younger and healthier appearance. This process becomes particularly important as we age, as our skin’s natural cell turnover slows down, leading to visible signs of ageing.
However, not all retinoids are the same—they vary in strength. For skin to "accept" a retinoid, it must go through an enzymatic process, breaking down into retinoic acid. For instance, retinyl palmitate requires three conversion steps, retinol needs two, and retinaldehyde only one. Generally, the fewer the conversion steps, the more potent the retinoid.
Retinoids are also naturally yellow-to-orange in colour, due to the vitamin A content. Don’t worry, though—this is just the natural colour of the raw ingredient!
How Do Retinoids Work?
Retinoids are cell communicators that interact with the skin in a complex way. Once converted into retinoic acid, they instruct the skin to carry out various tasks, such as promoting cell turnover and stimulating the production of substances that maintain skin firmness. Retinoids also work as antioxidants, helping protect skin from external stressors like UV rays and pollution.
What are the benefits of retinoids?
While retinoids are best known for their anti-ageing properties, they offer many other skin benefits. Though they differ depending on their structure and how your skin responds, most retinoids are known to:
Minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Improve skin firmness by promoting the creation of substances that support the skin's structure.
Reduce the occurrence of bumps and clogged pores, making them great for acne-prone skin. Some retinoids also help balance oil production to prevent clogged pores.
Target large pores.
Help even out skin tone and reduce dark spots caused by sun damage, ageing, or breakouts.
Offer protection against external aggressors that, if left unchecked, can lead to wrinkles, dullness, and uneven skin tone.
Are Retinoids Good for Skin?
Retinoids are among the most researched cosmetic ingredients, with a long-standing record of safety and effectiveness.
While retinoids are generally safe, it’s advisable to avoid them, particularly tretinoin, during pregnancy or breastfeeding, as excess retinoid exposure can be harmful during this period.
For most skincare enthusiasts, using the right retinoid product for your skin type causes little to no issues. However, because retinoids are potent, they may cause side effects like:
Redness (in light skin tones) or dark/purple patches (in darker skin tones) at the application site.
Dryness or flaking.
Sensitivity, itchiness, or tightness.
A sunburn-like warmth, with or without redness.
If you experience any of these effects, you can:
Reduce the frequency of application (e.g., switch to 3 times a week instead of daily).
Opt for a lower-strength retinoid and observe how your skin reacts. Some retinoids can still deliver results at lower concentrations.
Try the "sandwich" method: Apply a hydrating, soothing serum or moisturiser before and after your retinoid product.
When Should You Start Using Retinoids?
For anti-ageing benefits, it’s recommended to begin using retinoids in your twenties, as that’s when the skin’s natural cell turnover and its ability to produce firming substances start to decline. Using retinoids before your twenties may not be necessary, as the skin is still functioning healthily and youthful.
Teens with acne-prone skin may consider using retinoids, but it’s best to consult a dermatologist for a prescription or guidance on over-the-counter options.
How to Use Retinoids
Retinoids should be part of your PM skincare routine, as they can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays. Start with cleansing, toning, and exfoliating with a leave-on exfoliant. Follow with the rest of your skincare in order of thinnest to thickest texture, applying your retinoid product next. Finish with a barrier-repair moisturiser at night and always use SPF if you plan to use retinoids during the day.
When first incorporating retinoids, use them 2-3 times a week. After your skin adjusts, you can gradually increase usage to once or twice daily, depending on your skin’s tolerance. Also, keep in mind that retinoids are antioxidants and highly sensitive to light and air, so choose a product in airtight and opaque packaging to keep it effective. Avoid products in glass jars!
Can You Use Retinoids with Other Active Ingredients?
Yes, you can absolutely use retinoids alongside other active ingredients. The belief that you can’t is based on outdated research and misinformation. However, it’s important to pay attention to how your skin reacts when introducing new actives into your routine.
Pairing retinoids with chemical exfoliants, like BHA and AHAs—whether in the same routine or on alternating nights—can actually enhance visible results. There's a misconception that combining these two can lead to over-exfoliation, but retinoids don’t exfoliate the skin Instead, they encourage normal cell turnover.
Incorporating both vitamin C and retinoids into your skincare routine is also not something to shy away from. In fact, it's a great way to protect your skin from environmental damage. Both ingredients are powerful antioxidants, working together to protect the skin from external aggressors like pollution and UV rays, which can contribute to premature ageing.
Now, let’s talk about niacinamide and retinoids. Niacinamide is a barrier-strengthening ingredient that helps to soothe the skin. When used alongside retinoids, niacinamide can help the skin better tolerate retinoid use, reducing sensitivity that some people may experience. Both niacinamide and retinoids have anti-ageing benefits and can help balance oil production and minimise the appearance of pores. When combined, they work synergistically without causing harm to your skin.
Check out our range of Retinoids
Neostrata Skin Active Firming Potent Retinol Complex
L'Oreal Paris Revitalift Laser Retinol & Niacinamide Pressed Cream
Ella & Jo Nourish and Glow Superfood Facial Oil
Dr Paw Paw Your Gorgeous Skin Brightening Eye Cream
The INKEY List Mandelic Acid Treatment
Skingredients Retinol + B3 Anti-Ageing Night Serum
CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
Have a read of Triona McCarthy's review of the french cult product A313 here where Triona says 'It’s a retinol so it stimulates collagen production and smooths out fine lines AND a little goes a loooong way'